Feels as though we've slipped into Plans for Coming Home mode in these last few days.  On one hand it's as if the trip has gone by in a whirlwind, but then I remember the feel of the sun on my "look like Nepali face" while we read voraciously on the deck of our guest house in Pokhara.  Lazily watching the canoes on the lake, the paragliders floating to earth and the constant parade of humanity passing by on the street below us.  When I figured out that we would have a few extra days in Pokhara I emailed my sis to ask for suggestions on what to do.  Her response came back outlining a few of the obvious attractions and then, knowing me so well, she said that we could just relax and read a book in the sun.  Such a wise woman.


We're both on our sixth books so far - a mix of mountaineering books (yes if you can believe it I *DON'T* own every one), fiction that I wouldn't have read at home (God of Small Things - interesting), a review of Mormonism (so interesting how little their role as "the persecuted" has changed) and Natasha finished a Naomi Klein book of feminist writings that I'm not sure she's quite processed yet.  I can only imagine how wonderful it would be if I had this much time to read at home!


Our trip to Chitwan National Park was a mixed success; on one hand we both got to ride an elephant, laze on the porch in the sun watching the river flow by (sensing a trend here) and enjoy a gorgeous sunset paddle down the river in a small wooden boat.  The elephants were magnificent and being able to watch the mahouts interact with them was amazing.  While riding the elephant we also saw a black rhino, python, and an amazing collection of birds which made us wish that Andy was here to appreciate them.  On the down side, the food was horrendous and I wanted to suggest to them that they stick to Nepali or Indian food instead of badly attempting to make western fare.  

Travelers belly caught up with me ironically at this expensive, all-inclusive resort and not at the tiny village restaurants on our trek.  In my day and a half of not straying far from the bathroom I decided that I would publish a research paper titled "Efficacy of Immodium, activated charcoal and Pepto Bismol on the symptoms of gastrointestinal distress".  Unfortunately the statistical data will be limited by our sample set of two.

It's a funny mix here of western, Nepali, Tibetan and Indian cultures.  One moment you feel as though you could be in a restaurant in our neighbourhood (ahhhh Moondance we miss you already), the next you're staring at a garbage-choked river with children and adults sorting through the piles of debris, or listening to your guide talking on her cell in the middle of the Himalayas.  The contrasts are striking and I feel will be one of the biggest impressions I bring home with me.  I'm really troubled by the level of poverty and environmental degradation, and overwhelmed by the scale of it all.  It feels as though I'm constantly questioning what my role as a tourist is in all of this; am I helping or just confirming the Rich Western Tourist stereotype?

I've tried to be fair but not overly generous in how much we've paid/tipped our guide, assistant guides and the various service people we've come in contact with along the way.  We've bargained for the multitude of presents we've bought but also tried to remain fair and realize that $5 to us is little more than a Starbuck trip, but it makes a difference to some people here. 

I think that having a "Nepali face" has keep most of the beggars, street kids and others from approaching us - it's as if it takes a split second for them to realize that we're westerners and in that moment we've passed by.  I've listened to several blond, obvious westerners comment about how much they're hassled when they walk around and I must admit to feeling a little smug with my brown face and asian eyes.

One of the things I wanted to accomplish while I was here was to figure out what kind of NGO opportunities may be available for me in the years after Natasha leaves for university.  I've found so much information not from visiting the actual NGOs, but from talking to the Nepalis and the westerners who are here working for various NGOs.  My brain is swimming with possibilities and I'm looking forward to some quiet time at home to sort through all of the information I've gathered in conversations.  Since coming back to Kathmandu I've been trying to hook up with a couple of contacts but it's proving harder than I had anticipated.  

Two more days to go before we start the long journey home.  A bit more shopping, some more eating dal baht and hopefully many more pots of Nepali tea.  There's a surprise waiting for Natasha for her birthday.... shhhhhh.....