Back in Pokhara after a toodle around the mountains.  Sadly we didn't make it to Annapurna Base Camp as we ran out of time and our guide didn't seem all that enthusiastic about heading into -20C weather.  I can't say I blame her - although there's now a trekking guides' union of sorts, the trekking agencies still don't provide them with clothing or gear.  As a result, our guide and assistant guides didn't have sleeping bags or puffy jackets and one of them only had lightweight runners.  I can see how I would handle the set up of the trek differently next time....

I shamelessly burst into tears at my first sight of the Annapurna range from Poon Hill.  It was foggy when we first headed up there so we didn't see them at first.  However our patience was rewarded when the fog cleared and BOOM there they were seemingly within arms reach!  To say that the view is breathtaking is an understatement - without exaggeration I can say that it was as close to a religious experience that I've ever had.  

Anapurna South as seen from Poon Hill.

One thing that unfortunately took away from the experience of trekking was the amount of litter and garbage on the trail and in the villages.  Candy wrappers, plastic water bottles and half burnt piles of domestic garbage were sadly abundant.  I've been reading quite a bit about the Annapurna Conservation Area Program which is working hard with villagers in this area to create a more sustainable (and admittedly tourist friendly) environment through education programs.  For example, they're working hard to encourage the use of ozone water treatment instead of bottled water for trekkers, and have set pricing for lodges and food in each location to avoid villagers gouging each other.  It's a huge battle but from speaking to a few locals along the way I see that the passion is there, it's just a matter of time and perseverance. 

Pokhara is setting up for a big street festival and there's flags, lights and such going up all over Lakeside.  Gorgeous!  Natasha went paragliding this morning!  Photos to come once we have a faster connection....

Few more days here then off to ride elephants in Chitwan....